During these times of austerity I was a little surprised to hear that Hakkasan was welcoming a sibling to it’s London family, but after my visit on Friday night I think it’s just what the city’s dining scene needed. No longer owned by the original mastermind Alan Yau, this branch is located on a prominent Mayfair street just off Berkeley Square and spans two floors. The downstairs is similar to the original- a subterranean opulent eastern dining room, with cleverly placed mirrors, spotlights and carved screens.
Service is with a stylish swagger but remains all smiles- the waitresses are dressed in red DVF dresses and had me peering out to the boutique craftily located opposite. Who says fashion and gastronomy can not be successfully paired? The food really needs no introduction- conversation stopping; there was content silence only punctuated by hearty, satisfied groans. More traditional dim sum was delicate, whilst the higher end dishes displayed exquisite craftsmanship that fed all my senses. The sesame prawn toasts stuffed with foie gras must get a special mention- my dining companions and I loved them so much we requested a repeat performance. The cocktails, I can only describe as dangerous- even my 6ft 2 rugby playing surgeon friend could feel the ‘Hakka’ in his blood- a deathly combination of Belvedere vodka, Akashi-tai sake, lychee juice, lime, coconut and passion fruit.
Here I should mention the reason for our visit- a good friend’s (let’s call her Aunty C) fiance was in town from Dubai. Now, these Middle Eastern expats are difficult to please, and the fact that LLL (a fan of this blog) was as enthused as us- is testament to the fact that Hakkasan Mayfair won’t fail to impress. Some patrons may be scared off by the sense of pretension (clipboards at dawn) but at “All Eyes On Her” we feel there is a time and a place for everything including occasionally being “seen” and indeed being part of a scene. We do not want to get all clichéd L’Oreal on you but if you have a special occasion in mind this place will provide a very deserving feast for your eyes and taste buds.
Nobu Berkeley has a new rival- and Hakkasan’s Michelin starred Cantonese cuisine has a new audience.